Why should I use a Greenland Paddle?
Greenland paddles are:
- Lightweight
- High on flex, so reduced strain on wrists and shoulders
- Efficient
- Elegant
- Offer low wind resistance in a headwind
- Buoyant and predictable while rolling
- Easier for a long days padding
- Easy on your hands
- Easy to stash on the deck as a second paddle
Greenland paddles are a tried and tested efficient touring blade. 10,000 years of use by the Inuit is often quoted. The designers of these blades used them to hunt and live – not just head out for a Saturday morning leisurely paddle, so the design has been proven in real world conditions.
The lancet shaped blade has a similar area to a European blade – it’s the shape and perimeter length that differ. When used with a canted stroke the thin blade allows water to spill one edge faster than the other. This leads to a lift effectively working like a modern wing paddle. This lift is what leads to the efficiency.
Couple this with a subtle, but real flex in the timber and the low weight of the whole paddle, and the result is less energy used for equivalent distance travelled.
My experience is that Greenland paddles offer a lower impact paddle stroke that seems to propel the boat faster with less effort. Certainly I feel less tired at the end of a days paddle than when I use a high angle stroke and euro paddle.
Certainly there is plenty of information on the web about the pros and cons of Greenland style paddles – I recommend the links below for further reading. The fist one is almost ‘compulsory’ for a Greenland paddle learner.
For explanation of the canted forward stroke:
For one supposition as to why the canted stroke works:
How do I order a paddle?
Either give me a call on my mobile number or email me. See the contacts page for details.
Can I arrange a test paddle?
Test paddles can be arranged. There are paddles in Victoria, NSW and Queensland. Call me to arrange a demo. I am located in Emerald beach just north of Coffs Harbour. Drop me a line to borrow a paddle or come out on the water with me.
I can post paddles around the country for a test paddle. Tester pays all costs though. Email me for shipping costs.
What options are available?
The options are wide open. Tell me what you want and I’ll see if I can make it for you. Common requests include:
- Laminated shafts, (I now do some laminates for standard prices - see below)
- Custom lengths,
- Alternate timbers,
- Hardwood edging for chip protection,
- Marine spar varnish for a glossy finish,
- Ultra light (but delicate) builds,
- Heavy weight builds,
- Addition of shoulders at the loom / blade transition.
What shape is your standard Tour Paddle - I can't quite see in the photos?
its incredibly hard to photograph paddles so the important bits people want to know are visible, so:
The standard Tour has 'soft shoulders', and a symetric 'airfoil' cross section. Blade tips are pretty thin, and near flat. I try and avoid installing a dihedral cross section anyhere but up near the root of the blade, as the dihedral shape needs more cant in use to avoid flutter. Dihedral shapes near the loom though are quite nice for holding.
The balde edges are crisp and not very rounded. Edges are probably less then 4mm in width. This makes for a fast silent paddle.
So what lenght do I need?
There are numerous ways for working out paddle length. I find the 'armspan plus a cubit' method works quite well for most. Loom length can vary, but some thing like shoulder width is about right for most, assuming you paddle am average width boat (say less than 60cm in width at the widest point).
There are many sites on the web discussing paddle lengths, and lots of diferent permutations for calculating length. I think length of paddles is not as important as many people make out.. especislly as many methods of calculations are based on imprecise measurements such as cubits and handspans, where different people may measure a cubit in different ways, with results varying by multiple centimetres for the same 'cubit'. My 2 cents worth is that based on my experience few people can actually feel a differnce of say 5cm in paddle length with a Greenalnd paddle, so dont get too hung up on the length issue. The most important thing is your paddle feels good for you.
The Tour is sized around what I like, and I find this a good starting point for many average to tall men (like me!).
Can you deliver and what does it cost?
Delivery by courier can be arranged. The costs vary depending on location and as of May 2009 is around $30 to $40 for Sydney / Brisbane / Melbourne, $60 to Perth, and $70 to Hobart. Prices for other locations vary so email me to get a costing from the Courier first.
I pack the paddle in a strong 100mm diameter PVC pipe securely padded, so that it doesn't get damaged in transport. I don't charge for the packing and tube. The tube makes a handy paddle protector for you too - you can mount them on your roof racks etc..
How do I paddle with this skinny thing?
The Greenland style stroke – a ‘quick start guide’
The Forward Stroke is relaxed and low, and slightly faster than your normal stroke. Think low, fluid and efficient movement.
- Start by grasping the paddle at either end of the loom, resting the little finger on the start of the blade.
- Reach forward and slide the blade into the water from the tip, with the top of the blade canted forward of the bottom of the blade – don’t poke it in, slide it into the water side first.
- As the blade is buried begin drawing in the blade towards the rear of the boat. Use a ‘squeeze’ rather than a ‘grab’ to start the stroke, accelerating the squeeze to the end of the stroke. Keep you hands at all times below your shoulders. Remember to rotate your torso to provide the power.
- Exit the water by slipping the blade up and out. The blade will be set up for the stroke on the other side.
An efficient stroke is almost silent – keep practicing until there is no air trapped behind the blade and near silent paddling.
It feels different from a ‘Euro’ style blade. Don’t be put off – paddle for a while and after a few minutes paddling and you should begin to understand the benefits available from these paddles.
Can you laminate a paddle for me too?
Sure – I can laminate for you in many different species and materials. See sections below relating to lamination first though.
Update 1/1/10 I now laminate a standard paddle blank for the same price as a one piece paddle. Typical laminates are hoop pine, oregon and spotted gum. I insert a 5 to 10mm 'spline' down the centre of the paddle full length.
Will it break?
My paddles are made from natural timber. I select the timber to gain the best quarter sawn, clear, defect free timber I can find. (This results in me rejecting about 9 out of 10 planks from my suppliers). However, these paddles are timber – timber has a lower strength than the equivalent section of carbon fibre or fibreglass laminate.
Of course you can break them – they’re wood, and just like any other paddle surfing, hard C to C rolls, rock gardening, levering off the beach and sitting on you paddle can break them.
In general use though, (paddling, rolling, etc) these paddles are certainly proven in terms of reliability.
If you break a paddle, and it’s clear you didn’t abuse it I will replace it, as long as you send me all parts of any broken paddle. BUT If you break the paddle doing things like rock gardening, levering off the beach, levering up your car to change the tyre or something silly I won’t cover it.
If you dent you paddle severely, or split the tip, or just want a spruce up and refinish, call me for a quote on the work – I’ll be pleased to help.
Aren’t laminated paddles stronger?
Laminations can increase the strength, if done with thought and care. However the place where extra strength is needed is in the loom and shoulder of the paddle. This is the point of most breakages during normal paddling. Laminations offered by most paddle manufacturers rarely cover this part, and seem mostly done to use up small slivers of timber and reduce waste. I feel that laminations are not required as the cost benefit doesn’t really pay off. See the warrantee section below.
That said I will laminate paddles for you if you want, but the end product will cost more than a solid paddle.
