Why should I use a Greenland Paddle?
Greenland paddles are:
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Lightweight
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High on flex, so reduced strain on wrists and shoulders
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Efficient
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Elegant
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Offer low wind resistance in a headwind
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Buoyant and predictable while rolling
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Easier for a long days padding
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Easy on your hands
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Easy to stash on the deck as a second paddle
Greenland paddles are a tried and tested efficient touring blade. 10,000 years of use by the Inuit is often quoted. The designers of these blades used them to hunt and live – not just head out for a Saturday morning leisurely paddle, so the design has been proven in real world conditions.
The lancet shaped blade has a similar area to a European blade – it’s the shape and perimeter length that differ. When used with a canted stroke the thin blade allows water to spill one edge faster than the other. This leads to a lift effectively working like a modern wing paddle. This lift is what leads to the efficiency.
Couple this with a subtle, but real flex in the timber and the low weight of the whole paddle, and the result is less energy used for equivalent distance travelled.
My experience is that Greenland paddles offer a lower impact paddle stroke that seems to propel the boat faster with less effort. Certainly I feel less tired at the end of a days paddle than when I use a high angle stroke and euro paddle.
Certainly there is plenty of information on the web about the pros and cons of Greenland style paddles – I recommend the links below for further reading. The fist one is almost ‘compulsory’ for a Greenland paddle learner.
For explanation of the canted forward stroke:
For one supposition as to why the canted stroke works:
How do I order a paddle?
Either give me a call on my mobile number or email me. See the contacts page for details.
Can I arrange a test paddle?
Test paddles can be arranged. There are paddles in Victoria, NSW and Queensland. Call me to arrange a demo. I am located in Emerald Beach just north of Coffs Harbour. Drop me a line to borrow a paddle or come out on the water with me.
I can post paddles around the country for a test paddle. Tester pays all costs though. Email me for shipping costs.
What options are available?
The options are wide open. Tell me what you want and I’ll see if I can make it for you. Common requests include:
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Laminated with hardwood for strength,
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Custom lengths,
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Alternate timbers,
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Hardwood edging for chip protection,
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Marine spar varnish for a glossy finish,
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Ultra light (but delicate) builds,
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Heavy weight builds,
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Addition of shoulders at the loom / blade transition.
I don't make two part paddles. Why? Because I've not found a way to make them that will not break during normal use thats a reasonable cost. Others make them in production machine made paddles. They still seem to break at the end of the joiner though..
What shape is your standard Tour Paddle - I can't quite see in the photos?
Its incredibly hard to photograph paddles so the important bits people want to know are visible, so:
The standard Tour has 'soft shoulders', and a symetric 'airfoil' cross section - oval in section, not flat nor round. Blade tips are pretty thin, and near flat. I try and avoid installing a dihedral cross section anyhere but up near the root of the blade, as the dihedral shape needs more cant in use to avoid flutter. Dihedral shapes near the loom though are quite nice for holding.
The balde edges are crisp and not very rounded. Edges are probably less then 4mm in width. This makes for a fast silent paddle.
So what length do I need?
There are numerous ways for working out paddle length. I find the 'armspan plus a cubit' method works quite well for most. Loom length can vary, but some thing like shoulder width is about right for most, assuming you paddle am average width boat (say less than 60cm in width at the widest point).
There are many sites on the web discussing paddle lengths, and lots of diferent permutations for calculating length. I think length of paddles is not as important as many people make out.. especially as many calculations are based on imprecise measurements such as cubits and handspans, where different people may measure a cubit in different ways, with results varying by multiple centimetres for the same 'cubit'. My 2 cents worth is that few people can actually feel a differnce of say 5cm in paddle length with a Greenalnd paddle, so don't get too hung up on the length issue. The most important thing is your paddle feels good for you.
The Tour is sized around what I like, and I find this a good starting point for many average to tall men (like me!).
Can you deliver and what does it cost?
Delivery by courier can be arranged. The costs vary depending on location and is around $35 to $45 for Sydney / Brisbane / Melbourne, $60 to Perth, and $70 to Hobart. Prices for other locations vary so email me to get a costing from the Courier first.
I pack the paddle in a strong 100mm diameter PVC pipe securely padded, so that it doesn't get damaged in transport. I don't charge for the packing and tube. The tube makes a handy paddle protector for you too - you can mount them on your roof racks etc..
You make wood paddles. Why sell carbon fibre paddles made by others?
I import Northern Lights Paddles because their products compliment what I make. Their paddles are sectional and are the first mass produced paddles I've liked. Their quality and price point are reasonable and not astronomical. They are stong and pack down into a reasonable size. They also satisfy the demand for the people who call me and want a two part paddle.
Last and most importantly, they are actually a great shape and paddle really well.
How do I paddle with this skinny thing?
The Greenland style stroke – a ‘quick start guide’
The Forward Stroke is relaxed and low, and slightly faster than your normal stroke. Think low, fluid and efficient movement.
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Start by grasping the paddle at either end of the loom, resting the little finger on the start of the blade.
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Reach forward and slide the blade into the water from the tip, with the top of the blade canted forward of the bottom of the blade – don’t poke it in, slide it into the water side first.
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As the blade is buried begin drawing in the blade towards the rear of the boat. Use a ‘squeeze’ rather than a ‘grab’ to start the stroke, accelerating the squeeze to the end of the stroke. Keep you hands at all times below your shoulders. Remember to rotate your torso to provide the power.
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Exit the water by slipping the blade up and out. The blade will be set up for the stroke on the other side.
An efficient stroke is almost silent – keep practicing until there is no air trapped behind the blade and near silent paddling.
It feels different from a ‘Euro’ style blade. Don’t be put off – paddle for a while and after a few minutes paddling and you should begin to understand the benefits available from these paddles.
Can you laminate a paddle for me too?
Sure – I can laminate for you in many different species and materials. I preffer Jarrah for lamination and tend to use a lamination of jarrak some 2mm to 4mm thick between two pieces of cedar. I also laminate paddles from three pieces of cedar which allows me to make light hollow cored paddles that feel very bouyant.
Will it break?
My paddles are made from natural timber. I select the timber to gain the best quarter sawn, clear, defect free timber I can find. (This results in me rejecting about 9 out of 10 planks from my suppliers). However, these paddles are timber – timber has a lower strength than the equivalent section of carbon fibre or fibreglass laminate.
Of course you can break them – they’re wood, and just like any other paddle surfing, hard rolls, rock gardening, levering off the beach and sitting on you paddle can break them.
In general use though, (paddling, rolling, etc) these paddles are certainly proven in terms of reliability.
If you break a paddle, and it’s clear you didn’t abuse it I will replace it, as long as you send me all parts of any broken paddle. BUT If you break the paddle doing things like rock gardening, levering off the beach, levering up your car to change the tyre or something silly I won’t cover it.
If you dent you paddle severely, or split the tip, or just want a spruce up and refinish, call me for a quote on the work – I’ll be pleased to help.
Aren’t laminated paddles stronger?
Laminations can increase the strength, if done with thought and care. However the place where extra strength is needed is in the loom and shoulder of the paddle. This is the point of most breakages during normal paddling. Laminations offered by most paddle manufacturers rarely cover this part, and seem mostly done to use up small slivers of timber and reduce waste. I feel that laminations are not required, but they can look pretty spiffy and can add insurance with a bit more strength. They alos allow me to make hollow cored padles and retain more strength.
I will laminate paddles for you if you want, but the end product will cost more than a solid paddle.
